With Mount Rainier completely wrapped in clouds, we set aside our plans for the Skyline Trail. As we drove through the Paradise Visitor Center area around noon, we saw the overflow parking overflowing. Cars lined the road in every direction, and the whole scene felt more like a theme park than a national park. So we kept driving and let waterfalls take over the day instead.
Our first stop was Longmire, the park’s historic headquarters, named for James Longmire, who discovered mineral springs here in the 1880s and later built a rustic resort. While there, we paused at one of the more fascinating sights in the area: a cross section from a massive Douglas fir that had been growing since around 1290 before it was cut in 1963. Its rings are marked with major moments in history, a reminder of just how much time one tree can witness. We also walked the short Trail of the Shadows, which loops through forest and meadow to the springs that first drew visitors here.
From there, we headed to Carter Falls, about 2.5 miles round trip. The hike began with a crossing over the Nisqually River on a narrow log footbridge, then climbed gently through old growth forest to the falls. Carter is not the biggest waterfall in the park, but it is a pretty one, dropping about 50 feet through a lush green setting.
On the drive back, we added two more waterfall stops. Christine Falls was a quick pull-off, but one of the most photogenic in the park, with its graceful stone bridge arching above the cascade. Not far beyond that was Narada Falls, where a short walk led to views of a dramatic 188-foot two-tiered waterfall crashing down through a rocky chute.
It was not the Skyline day we had planned, but it ended up being a great way to explore a different side of Rainier. Between the old history of Longmire and the string of waterfalls along the road, the Paradise area still gave us plenty to enjoy, even with the mountain hidden away.