Parks Peaks & Paths

Moab, UT

Devils Garden in Arches

4 / 5
We returned to Arches for one final big hike, taking on the 8.1-mile Devils Garden loop with one goal in mind: see every arch along the trail. Devils Garden is a wild landscape of sandstone fins, towers, narrow rock walls, and drop-offs stretched out under a huge open sky.
We made our way deeper into the hike, passing one major formation after another. Landscape Arch was the big early showstopper, somehow looking both massive and impossibly delicate at the same time. Farther along, we branched off to Navajo Arch and Partition Arch, then continued on to Double O Arch.

On the approach to Double O Arch, the scenery was incredible, with dramatic sandstone fins and towering formations spread out in every direction. By the time we reached the arch, it made a good lunch stop. While we were there, a Woodhouse’s Scrub-Jay came by to investigate, along with a very cute chipmunk who was clearly no stranger to hikers.

From Double O Arch, we headed out on the spur to Dark Angel. We could already see the spire from a distance, but I did not realize that was actually the destination. It was marked on the AllTrails map, and since I was focused on seeing every arch, I assumed it was leading us to one more. Instead, after hiking farther out, we arrived at a marked giant sandstone spire standing alone in the desert. It was impressive, but also a little disappointing when I had been expecting another arch. Along the way, I finally noticed the dark, crusty soil I had been reading about throughout the park. Biological soil crust helps stabilize the desert soil and supports the fragile ecosystem around it.

We returned to the main trail and had a choice: head back the way we came or continue on toward the Primitive Trail. We decided to keep going. Not long after, we reached the spur to Private Arch. By then we were hiking in the hottest part of the day. Temperatures were in the 80s, and with almost no shade anywhere on the trail, it felt even hotter. I got some grumbling from Danny about adding the extra spur, but he relented. Private Arch definitely lived up to its name, because there was not another soul out there.

The Primitive trail had barely any other hikers and was more rugged than the main route. It wound across slickrock, through narrow spaces, and over uneven terrain. The route was marked by strategically placed cairns, so we were constantly scanning the landscape ahead to spot the next one and stay on course. In two places, pooled water completely blocked the path, forcing us to climb up onto the surrounding rock and scramble around the edges to keep moving.

We finished with the final spur near the trail entrance to Tunnel Arch and Pine Tree Arch, closing out the full set. It was hot, longer than expected, and at times a little challenging, but it felt like the perfect final big hike of the trip. And in the end, I got what I came for. Every arch on the trail.

As we were leaving Arches in the car, the sky suddenly turned dark and menacing. We were both grateful we were not still out on the trail to contend with the elements.