St Mary Lake Boat Tour and Going-to-the-Sun Road
5 / 10
Day 5 in Glacier brought a little bit of everything: geology, goat sightings, deer, and a whole lot of parking lot rejection. We started the morning with my parents, who had just arrived, on a 10 a.m. boat tour of St. Mary Lake. We had managed to score four tickets about a week earlier, which felt like a small victory given how quickly activities in the park can fill up.
The scenic cruise lasts about 90 minutes and offers a great perspective of Glacier’s east side from the water. Early in the ride our guide talked about how the lake was carved by glaciers during the last Ice Age. St. Mary Lake stretches more than nine miles long and sits at around 4,500 feet in elevation, making it the second largest lake in the park. From the lake we could see Wild Goose Island, whose rocky peak is just the tip of a much larger ridge hidden beneath the water. Fun fact: scenes from the opening credits of The Shining were filmed here.
Partway through the tour, the boat docked briefly at Baring Falls, where passengers can step off and take a short walk to the waterfall before boarding the return boat. Later in the cruise, the guide pointed out Sexton Glacier high on the slopes below Going-to-the-Sun Mountain. It was a cool reminder that glaciers once filled this entire valley and carved the lake we were floating on.
After the tour, we headed to Sun Point for a picnic lunch. Unfortunately, the parking lot was packed. After circling a few times with no luck, we gave up and found a pull off on the road. Lunch was eaten out of the back of the car, not exactly what we pictured, but it got the job done.
Next, we tried for the St. Mary Falls trailhead. Once again, not a single spot available. We continued driving the Going to the Sun Road, hoping our luck would turn. When we reached Logan Pass, we circled the lot again, but there was still no parking. For the third time, we moved on.
Just past Logan Pass at Oberlin Bend, the day turned around. We spotted a mountain goat right by the road, and managed to pull over in time to watch several of them, including a mother with two kids. They were close enough to really appreciate, calmly navigating the rocks and grazing in the open. That moment more than made up for all the failed parking attempts.
We continued to Siyeh Bend and got out to take in the views, and walked a little ways down the Piegan Pass trail enjoying a nice creek. After returning to the parking lot, deer came wandering through, walking right through crowds of people. Some of them had their mouths open with tongues hanging out, likely panting to cool down. It had been in the 80s earlier at St. Mary Lake, and while it was cooler at elevation, it was still a warm day. We also noticed a few licking the pavement, probably in search of salt.
After checking out the nearby falls, we returned to the car and aimed for Trail of the Cedars. On the way, we passed the Weeping Wall and got a good laugh when we saw a guy standing roadside in his underwear, taking a full-on glacier shower. When we arrived at the trailhead, it was 3:00 p.m., and unsurprisingly, the parking lot was full. We took a break and drove to the Lake McDonald Lodge Lounge for an early dinner, hoping the evening hours might open up some trailhead space. The food was good, and we enjoyed the down time.
Finally, when we returned to Trail of the Cedars, we found an open spot. This was a repeat visit for Danny and me, but still worth the short walk through the old growth cedar forest.
On our way back toward Logan Pass, we passed Oberlin Bend again and were treated to another sighting of the same group of mountain goats. We pulled off again and this time, the mother and her two kids passed by right in front of us as we were standing in the parking lot.
Later we arrived at Logan Pass, and found a parking spot waiting for us. We took my parents along the Hidden Lake Trail, stopping before we reached the snow covered section. Even without completing the full hike, the trail offered sweeping views of the high alpine landscape.
As we returned to the parking lot, we spotted bighorn sheep milling around the area. We paused to grab some photos, and just as we were pulling out, we saw bighorn ewes and little lambs off to the left.
After a string of missed trailheads and packed parking lots, the day turned into one of our best wildlife days yet. Glacier doesn’t always make it easy, but it always delivers.
Partway through the tour, the boat docked briefly at Baring Falls, where passengers can step off and take a short walk to the waterfall before boarding the return boat. Later in the cruise, the guide pointed out Sexton Glacier high on the slopes below Going-to-the-Sun Mountain. It was a cool reminder that glaciers once filled this entire valley and carved the lake we were floating on.
After the tour, we headed to Sun Point for a picnic lunch. Unfortunately, the parking lot was packed. After circling a few times with no luck, we gave up and found a pull off on the road. Lunch was eaten out of the back of the car, not exactly what we pictured, but it got the job done.
Next, we tried for the St. Mary Falls trailhead. Once again, not a single spot available. We continued driving the Going to the Sun Road, hoping our luck would turn. When we reached Logan Pass, we circled the lot again, but there was still no parking. For the third time, we moved on.
Just past Logan Pass at Oberlin Bend, the day turned around. We spotted a mountain goat right by the road, and managed to pull over in time to watch several of them, including a mother with two kids. They were close enough to really appreciate, calmly navigating the rocks and grazing in the open. That moment more than made up for all the failed parking attempts.
We continued to Siyeh Bend and got out to take in the views, and walked a little ways down the Piegan Pass trail enjoying a nice creek. After returning to the parking lot, deer came wandering through, walking right through crowds of people. Some of them had their mouths open with tongues hanging out, likely panting to cool down. It had been in the 80s earlier at St. Mary Lake, and while it was cooler at elevation, it was still a warm day. We also noticed a few licking the pavement, probably in search of salt.
After checking out the nearby falls, we returned to the car and aimed for Trail of the Cedars. On the way, we passed the Weeping Wall and got a good laugh when we saw a guy standing roadside in his underwear, taking a full-on glacier shower. When we arrived at the trailhead, it was 3:00 p.m., and unsurprisingly, the parking lot was full. We took a break and drove to the Lake McDonald Lodge Lounge for an early dinner, hoping the evening hours might open up some trailhead space. The food was good, and we enjoyed the down time.
Finally, when we returned to Trail of the Cedars, we found an open spot. This was a repeat visit for Danny and me, but still worth the short walk through the old growth cedar forest.
On our way back toward Logan Pass, we passed Oberlin Bend again and were treated to another sighting of the same group of mountain goats. We pulled off again and this time, the mother and her two kids passed by right in front of us as we were standing in the parking lot.
Later we arrived at Logan Pass, and found a parking spot waiting for us. We took my parents along the Hidden Lake Trail, stopping before we reached the snow covered section. Even without completing the full hike, the trail offered sweeping views of the high alpine landscape.
As we returned to the parking lot, we spotted bighorn sheep milling around the area. We paused to grab some photos, and just as we were pulling out, we saw bighorn ewes and little lambs off to the left.
After a string of missed trailheads and packed parking lots, the day turned into one of our best wildlife days yet. Glacier doesn’t always make it easy, but it always delivers.