Umpqua Hot Springs
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Between Newberry and the Umpqua corridor, we found ourselves with one open night and nowhere booked, so we improvised. After stocking up in Bend, we made our way toward Crater Lake and reached a stretch of Highway 138 that ran straight for miles, rising gently through the pine forest. Not far off the road, we turned onto NF-70 and found a dispersed site in Fremont-Winema National Forest, tucked among tall lodgepole pines. The next morning, we continued west to Toketee Lake Campground along the North Umpqua River. On arrival, we were greeted by a garter snake who seemed mildly offended by my presence before slipping quietly into the brush.
Once we were set up, we headed to Umpqua Hot Springs. We had to drive a few miles from the campground, and when we got there the parking lot was packed. I hesitated and asked Danny if we should give it some time and try again later, maybe with fewer crowds, but he was ready for hot springs now. So we squeezed into a spot and started on our way.
The hike in is short but steep, climbing to a series of naturally terraced pools perched above the river. The springs have a reputation for being relaxed and, well, open minded. On the way up, we passed what might be the most decorated outhouse in Oregon, a tiny shack completely covered in graffiti and bright spray paint. It looked less like a restroom and more like a forest art installation.
Then came the full Oregon experience.
As soon as we reached the springs, there he was, one very unclothed man unabashedly sprawled out in one of the pools. Intentionally positioned, completely exposed, and clearly unconcerned that families and children were present. We quickly claimed an empty pool and positioned ourselves strategically with our backs turned, trying to forget what lay behind us.
After a long soak, I stepped out to take photos. Naturally, that was the exact moment Mr. Confidence decided to make his exit. He strolled toward the trail in his birthday suit, carrying a wicker basket like it was all perfectly normal.
Shortly after, another older man arrived and followed suit. Unlike the first guy, he sank discreetly into the water and kept things a bit more subtle. Despite the unexpected cultural lesson, the springs themselves were beautiful, with warm mineral water, forested canyon views, and the sound of the river far below.
That night, back at camp, the steady murmur of the Umpqua River became our lullaby. It was the perfect kind of sleep that only comes after a hot spring soak.
The hike in is short but steep, climbing to a series of naturally terraced pools perched above the river. The springs have a reputation for being relaxed and, well, open minded. On the way up, we passed what might be the most decorated outhouse in Oregon, a tiny shack completely covered in graffiti and bright spray paint. It looked less like a restroom and more like a forest art installation.
Then came the full Oregon experience.
As soon as we reached the springs, there he was, one very unclothed man unabashedly sprawled out in one of the pools. Intentionally positioned, completely exposed, and clearly unconcerned that families and children were present. We quickly claimed an empty pool and positioned ourselves strategically with our backs turned, trying to forget what lay behind us.
After a long soak, I stepped out to take photos. Naturally, that was the exact moment Mr. Confidence decided to make his exit. He strolled toward the trail in his birthday suit, carrying a wicker basket like it was all perfectly normal.
Shortly after, another older man arrived and followed suit. Unlike the first guy, he sank discreetly into the water and kept things a bit more subtle. Despite the unexpected cultural lesson, the springs themselves were beautiful, with warm mineral water, forested canyon views, and the sound of the river far below.
That night, back at camp, the steady murmur of the Umpqua River became our lullaby. It was the perfect kind of sleep that only comes after a hot spring soak.