Parks Peaks & Paths

Crater Lake National Park, OR

Toketee Falls and Crater Lake

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Toketee Falls was our first stop of the morning, where the North Umpqua River drops 120 feet in a dramatic two tiered plunge. A massive rusted water pipe ran alongside the trailhead parking lot, riddled with holes that sprayed arcs of water in every direction. Danny did not hesitate. He rolled the car straight through for a free rinse, then turned around and did it again to catch the other side.
The hike to Toketee Falls is short, about 0.8 miles. At the viewing platform, the falls revealed themselves in full elegance, plunging into a narrow basalt canyon surrounded by dense green forest. From there, we headed south toward the crown jewel of Oregon’s volcanoes, Crater Lake National Park.

Our first stop inside the park was Discovery Point Overlook. Nothing really prepares you for that first look at Crater Lake. The blue does not look real. We pulled off with the camper, made lunch, and just sat there taking it in.

Clark’s nutcrackers darted around us, including one perched dramatically on a twisted whitebark pine overlooking the lake like it was posing for a calendar. These birds are critical to the survival of the endangered whitebark pine. They pry open the tightly sealed cones and scatter the seeds, planting the next generation across the slopes. It is a partnership that has been going on for centuries.

After lunch, we dropped the camper at Mazama Village Campground and set out to explore the rim. On the drive, a black tailed deer and her fawn crossed the road ahead of us, pausing to look at us before slipping back into the trees.

A little farther along, we stopped at Vidae Falls, a 100 foot cascade of snowmelt spilling down a rocky slope right beside the road. Wildflowers and evergreens framed the scene. An American dipper bobbed along the rocks, dipping in and out of the rushing water like it had no concept of personal safety.

We made a civilized detour to Crater Lake Lodge for shrimp cocktails and adult beverages. Nearby, a yellow rumped warbler was working overtime to feed its fledgling. The youngster was noticeably larger and impressively plump, yet still chirped nonstop from the branches, demanding more. Some things are universal.

We ended the evening on Watchman Peak. The trail is short but climbs about 400 feet in under a mile, earning every bit of the view. Along the way, two male sooty grouse wandered near the trail, completely unbothered by us. One strolled just a few feet away, calmly pecking at leaves as if we were the background characters.

At the summit, we watched the sun sink low, golden light spilling across distant ridges while Crater Lake deepened into darker shades of blue. Waterfalls, wildlife, free car washes, and a lake that is like noneother made for a great day.