We kicked off the day catching the 8 AM ferry as walk-ons from Anacortes to San Juan Island, about a 90 minute ride of scenic cruising.
As soon as we landed in Friday Harbor, we hopped on the cheerful Jolly Trolley for a $30 hop-on/hop-off tour. Our first stop was Roche Harbor, a picturesque little marina dripping in charm and yacht money. Since it was about lunchtime, we took our guide’s advice and grabbed a table at Madrona Bar & Grill, where he swore he had the best calamari of his life. We’re happy to report: he wasn’t wrong! That calamari was next-level. We followed it up with fresh caught rockfish from Vancouver.
Post lunch, we strolled the docks, admiring the luxury yachts and soaking in the harbor vibe. Then we took a quick 5 minute walk to the San Juan Islands Sculpture Park, a 20 acre open air gallery featuring over 150 rotating sculptures along winding trails, ponds, and open meadows. It’s a peaceful, quirky blend of art and nature, with everything from abstract metalworks to whimsical wooden figures.
Back on the trolley, we made our way to British Camp, where we learned about one of the strangest near war event in U.S. history. Back in the mid-1800s, the U.S. and Britain were squabbling over where the border should fall in these parts. Both sides claimed San Juan Island, thanks to vague treaty wording about which "channel" marked the boundary. Both nations occupied the island. British troops were stationed in the north, and American troops in the south. They both waited years for someone to figure it out.
Tensions simmered, but things truly escalated when an American farmer shot a British pig that had wandered into his potato patch. The incident triggered diplomatic outrage, troop buildups, and nearly a war—all over a pig and some potatoes. Fortunately, no shots were fired (except at the pig), and the conflict was eventually resolved with zero human casualties.
Today, British Camp is impressively preserved, with a lovely flower garden, several historic buildings, and a peaceful waterfront. While we didn't make it to the American camp, word on the street is the British camp is much nicer than the American side.
Our last stop was Lime Kiln Point State Park, known as one of the best land based spots to view orcas. While we were too late to go inside the lighthouse and the whales were a no-show, the coastal views and salty breeze made it a worthy finale.
Back in Friday Harbor, we wrapped things up with shrimp and oyster appetizers and a round of drinks while waiting for the ferry. A day full of history, seafood, and salty air. What more could you ask for?