Parks Peaks & Paths

Alamogordo, NM

El Paso to Oliver Lee Memorial State Park

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While passing through El Paso, we decided to keep the streak alive with our fourth Mexican meal out in a row. Gotta take advantage of Southwest cuisine while we can! We stopped at L&J Café, a nearly 100-year-old, family-run spot now in its fourth generation. The food was amazing, the place was packed, oozing with charm, and clearly beloved by locals.
After arriving at my campground Oliver Lee Memorial State Park in New Mexico, I learned the story of Francois-Jean “Frenchy” Rochas. Frenchy was a loner from France who built a cabin here in the 1890s and carved out a life in the desert with a successful orchard, vineyard, and cattle herd. Most impressively, he built a fence out of rocks by himself straight up the side of the mountain, and it still stands today. He eventually partnered with Oliver Lee on an irrigation project, since Lee owned land on both sides of his.

Frenchy was later found dead at age 51 with a bullet wound to the chest. It was ruled a suicide, but many believed he was murdered. Some say he and Lee had disputes over water rights.

After seeing that fence up the mountainside, I’m convinced Frenchy was tough as nails and didn’t give up on life so easily. Whatever the truth, it’s a story that adds some grit and mystery to an already rugged landscape.

On our first evening at Oliver Lee Memorial State Park of New Mexico, we hiked a short trail uphill to catch the sunset. Along the way, we passed some seriously impressive cacti, including one massive cluster that really caught my eye, a true desert veteran. Cacti are very slow growing, and this one has surely been beating the heat for some time. Great views, golden light, and plenty of spikes.